Tag: fuji

Laguna 69: Soroche 1 – Greg 0 (Peru)

Hi !

El soroche (high altitude or mountain sickness) is something probably more of a legend for the Peruvians, but for a guy born and raised at 600masl (meter above sea level) and who has climbed the Vosges mountains (or hills would be more accurate) for the most part of his life, it will be a very bad experience. Fortunately, if I can say so, it wasn’t while doing the Everest that I had to face it.

We wanted to hike to Laguna 69, so following some recommendations, we decided to do it in two steps: day 1 we hike to Refugio Peru/Pisco, starting from 3900masl, then reaching 4700masl after some 5km, and day 2, we climb over a 5000masl pass to hike downhill to the laguna and then back to the trail head.

We did the climb to the Refugio in about 4h20 (accounting for more than 2h of breaks and catching my breath). When we passed the 4400masl, a strange feeling similar to light panic attacks and light fever starting to hit us. But it was easier to continue than going back, since there would be no car waiting for us and we could just freeze overnight. So we continued, and it was worst: the panic attack and fever feelings got worst, then came the headache and dizziness. We felt like shit !

The Refugio was however a pleasant surprise. First there’s the insane view, with the Pisco, the Huantoy and Huscaran peaks visible. operated by benevolences, with premium quality accommodation, I would say it wasn’t the worst place to rest and wait for the body to fight back the soroche. I would have hated to do that in a tent. We met there a few people, all having next to no issues with been that high. I won’t even talk about the Peruvian porters, who carried more than 50km and made the climb in less than two hours, no breaks unless they have to wait for their customers.

Anyway, it sort of killed the mood, and feeling that bad (and somewhat reminded of our lack of fitness), we decided not to attempt the Laguna 69 the next day, since passing a 5000masl pass was involved. We also decided to not do the Santa Cruz trek, as clearly we would not properly acclimate, since we are staying below 2500masl. This hike to the Refugio would probably have been a success if we would have slept a night at 3900masl, to acclimate properly.

So here it is, another failed attempt. I wouldn’t say it should mean no more high mountain, but doing better preparation definitively.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned.

Failed attempt at Laguna Churup (Peru)

Hi !

Unlike John “Anibal” Smith of the A-Team, my plans don’t always come together.

We were all pumped about doing the Laguna Churup trail, even though there was some rock climbing involved, something we weren’t really comfortable with. The weather was looking good when we left, just slightly overcast, which would mean we would not cook under the sun all the way up there. We were so confident we added an extra 8km (to go from the hostel to the park entry and back).

When we started the rock climbing part, the weather actually turned bad, cold and wet, something I wasn’t really prepared to face, and ended having to turn back before reaching the lake at some 4450m (we were maybe 10 minutes from it), when the snow became severe. The worst part was to climb done on wet slippery stones, trying to reach for snow covered ropes… even though we were able to do it without any injuries.

Two lessons learnt on that day: avoid what you are not comfortable with and bring more layers to adjust for the weather.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Pitec (Peru)

Hi !

After the busy streets of Huaraz and an excursion to Laguna Wilcacocha, it was about time to hit the road to a more remote location. Pitec was the perfect choice.

It took 20km of an epic unsealed road, passing through rural areas, to reach the plateau at some 3700m (we started at 3000m). Here’s the view from our accommodation, the last hostel before the National Park entrance (some 4km away).

A very cold night was expected, the hostel was minimal as about every other houses up there, but it was guaranteed to have the same view the next morning while I enjoy a breakfast..

The plan for the next day was to do the Laguna Churup trail (a short yet challenging trail, which involves some scary climbing using pre-installed ropes).

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Peruvian woman looking at the Cordillera Blanca (Peru)

Hi !

Today was the first acclimation hike to reach Laguna Wilcacocha at 3700 meters. It is a 600m ascend over 5km (or 7.5km if like us you miss the shortcuts). The overall idea is to test yourself at hiking above 3000 meters. And I won’t lie, it was actually different from my traditional hiking experience: very quickly I felt out of breath, and couldn’t just walk it without a break. No headache and no extreme tireness though, so I think I avoided the high altitude sickness, but a few more challenging hikes should confirm that before we start trekking (Santa Cruz Trek).

All of that wouldn’t be fun if there wasn’t a reward up there: a view of Huaraz with the white peaks of the Cordillera Blanca in background. Also a pleasant surprise, as this place was sort of the picnic area for the locals to enjoy their sunday afternoon. There was in particular this Peruvian woman, contemplating the view like the rest of us.

I guess a more postal card picture would have been the reflection of the white peaks on the lake itself, but a very welcomed chilling wind made sure the lake was all but mirror still waters.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Streets of Huaraz (Peru)

Hi !

So we made it to our first stop of our six months trip: Huaraz, Peru, the trekker heaven. Which means we sort of don’t really fit into the local scene of experienced trekkers and hikers, all looking so cool.

The journey from Lima to Huaraz was a 8 hours bus ride, changing from the foggy grey winter weather of Lima to beautiful crystal clear blue sky of the mountains. We drove up to 4000 meters to then finish at Huaraz, sitting at 3050 meters. And the first thing noticeable when arriving there is the breathtaking (or it may be the altitude) mountains for the Cordillera Blanca. Unfortunately we arrived too late for the shot at the golden hour, but we should have a few other opportunities over the next days.

The next morning, while walking the streets searching for the breakfast place, I couldn’t resist to shot the street of Huaraz with the stunning background.

We are now acclimating and getting used to high altitude. The first couple of days are all about sorting a few details (like the first hike and treks) before going into the wild.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River (USA)

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Hi !

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River is, I must confess, quite the insane thing to witness. It doesn’t aim at competing against The Grand Canyon, but it certainly tale a story of cataclysm, massive erosion and other life threatening thing.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

The Yellowstone River (USA)

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Hi !

Yellowstone is the land of terrific volcanic activities, and then you can find the most peaceful river. Of course the events which led to such landscape where cataclysmic, but then it happen a bit more than half a million year ago.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Colors of Yellowstone (USA)

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Hi !

Yellowstone’s wonders are revealing to my eyes rich colours and beautiful landscape, which I’m not sure I’ve properly captured in this shot, but you get what you get.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Sunset on the Grand Teton (USA)

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Hi !

The night falls on the Grand Teton National Park, in such a dramatic way. My trip there is now finished, even though I only hiked 60km out of the many hundreds kilometres of trails available there.

I highly recommend to everybody to pay a visit, camp a couple of night, for it is really a neat place for wildlife, hiking and chilling.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned.

Road to the Grand Teton (USA)

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Hi !

Sometimes some great road leads to some great hikes, and with great hikes come great scenery !

Well I’m writing these lines having abused the local IPA a little bit too much… So I’m just gonna say I would love to knock one of these bastards out…

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

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