Hi !

El soroche (high altitude or mountain sickness) is something probably more of a legend for the Peruvians, but for a guy born and raised at 600masl (meter above sea level) and who has climbed the Vosges mountains (or hills would be more accurate) for the most part of his life, it will be a very bad experience. Fortunately, if I can say so, it wasn’t while doing the Everest that I had to face it.

We wanted to hike to Laguna 69, so following some recommendations, we decided to do it in two steps: day 1 we hike to Refugio Peru/Pisco, starting from 3900masl, then reaching 4700masl after some 5km, and day 2, we climb over a 5000masl pass to hike downhill to the laguna and then back to the trail head.

We did the climb to the Refugio in about 4h20 (accounting for more than 2h of breaks and catching my breath). When we passed the 4400masl, a strange feeling similar to light panic attacks and light fever starting to hit us. But it was easier to continue than going back, since there would be no car waiting for us and we could just freeze overnight. So we continued, and it was worst: the panic attack and fever feelings got worst, then came the headache and dizziness. We felt like shit !

The Refugio was however a pleasant surprise. First there’s the insane view, with the Pisco, the Huantoy and Huscaran peaks visible. operated by benevolences, with premium quality accommodation, I would say it wasn’t the worst place to rest and wait for the body to fight back the soroche. I would have hated to do that in a tent. We met there a few people, all having next to no issues with been that high. I won’t even talk about the Peruvian porters, who carried more than 50km and made the climb in less than two hours, no breaks unless they have to wait for their customers.

Anyway, it sort of killed the mood, and feeling that bad (and somewhat reminded of our lack of fitness), we decided not to attempt the Laguna 69 the next day, since passing a 5000masl pass was involved. We also decided to not do the Santa Cruz trek, as clearly we would not properly acclimate, since we are staying below 2500masl. This hike to the Refugio would probably have been a success if we would have slept a night at 3900masl, to acclimate properly.

So here it is, another failed attempt. I wouldn’t say it should mean no more high mountain, but doing better preparation definitively.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned.