Tag: 14mm

Laguna Negra (Argentina)

Hi !

Great hikes are always about the rewarding views, quiet places you can reach and some challenges along the way. For all of the above, the trail to the Refugio Laguna Negra, at the early season (late November / early December) lived up to these expectations.

Located in the Parque Nacional de Nahuel Huapi, this is not the busiest trail and shelter around. And for that reason mostly we decided to give it a try, instead of the more common Refugio Frey trail. It starts from Colonia Suiza, a lovely former Roman Swiss settlement that is now a hippie village, busy twice a week on Wednesdays and Sundays (so plan the hike to finish on either of these two days). From there, a 14km trail will take you there, starting with a 9km mostly flat section along a little river and finishing with the climb to the Laguna Negra. The climb is challenging (it is a rapid change of pace), especially when the snow is around. But the reward is reaching a quiet little lake, with just a few other hikers. All in all, a very nice 2-days walk.

However here comes the lecturing part of this post: if you are planning on making the climb when the snow is around, here is what you need to ask the Club Andino in Bariloche prior to doing the walk, because they are not really clear about it. I think that we were actually lucky to not suffer from the snow situation, as we didn’t really know what was there waiting for us.

First, check the situation about the snow for the day you are climbing. Though avalanches aren’t a big risk if you are taking the trail from Colonia Suiza, you’ll have to walk through some snow section, with the risk that the snow is actually ice (very slippery).

Second, check what will be the weather overnight. A cold and windy night may turn the snow into ice and you’ll have to wait that it start melting before leaving the shelter, or take with you the equipment to safely descend.

Third, take a sleeping bag even if you don’t plan to stay overnight. The condition may change and it may be difficult to leave the shelter on the same day. The round trip is 28km, and it can easily take 4 to 5 hours to deal with the climb and the descend, in bad conditions. The shelter offer a safety net, you should take advantage of it.

These three points should not cool you down, the hike is really worth it and just take some basic planning.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Lago Perito Moreno (Argentina)

Hi !

The Perito Moreno name can be found on many different landmark in Argentina, all  in Patagonia, one of them been the Perito Moreno Glacier, the most famous of all. The reason been that Dr. P. Moreno played an important role in setting the border between Chile and Argentina, using the Andes and its geological feature to build rules to split the land, lakes, mountains and river in two.

You will find very little reference to Dr. P. Moreno in Chile, for Chile probably did not find the rules fair, having the less habitable part of Patagonia, with the worst weather… However for most people this is the most incredible part.

Because Bariloche has a bad reputation for overlanders (cars are being robbed too often), Colonia Suiza is a nice alternative. It isn’t directly on the Lago Nahuel Huapi, but instead next to the very small (in comparison) Lago Perito Moreno. It doesn’t offer a direct view on the snow-covered mountains, but the top can be still be seen, and when the sun set, they are suddenly painted red.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Lago Nahuel Huapi (Argentina)

Hi !

The Ruta de 7 Lagos (the Seven Lakes Road),  a.k.a. Ruta 40, is what Patagonia is all about: snow-covered mountains, surrounded by blue lakes, lushly green vegetation, yellow flower bushes and snake roads. It is one of these roads one must drive on once in his life. The big star of the seven lakes in Lago Nahuel Huapi, a huge body of blue icy cold water, surrounded by gorgeous mountains.

Though there are more of Patagonia to discover, with highlights like Torres Del Paine, Ushuaia, Perito Moreno glacier, Fitz Roy and more, the Ruta de 7 Lagos is a good introduction. It goes from San Martin de Los Andes, a truly charming village with a beautiful background to S.C. de Bariloche (in the region Rio Negro), a less charming bigger city with just an awesome view you can’t get bored looking at all day long. German and Swiss German (in general I would say Alpine) influences are all over the place, with the Argentinian touch. But you don’t really get there to enjoy the cities…

Bellow are various other pictures taken in the Neuquén region.

Mirador Inalco
Mirador Inalco, the first view we got of the Lago Nahuel Huapi
Muelle Bahia Brava
Muelle Bahai Brava, looking at the nothern arm of the Lago Nahuel Huapi toward Chile
Lago Traful
Lago Traful, a quiet little lake
Lago Correntoso
Lago Correntoso, connected to Lago Nahuel Huapi by a small river
Ruta de 7 Lagos
Ruta de 7 Lagos, a really not boring drive
S.C. de Bariloche
S.C. de Bariloche, in the next province of Rio Negro

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Road from Huaraz to Conococha (Peru)

Hi !

Not all the places live up to one’s expectation, but Huaraz definitely did. So when it was time to leave it for Lima (awfully grey at this time of the year), the best thing to do was to depart as early as possible to enjoy some great views on the Cordillera Blanca with the morning sun.

This photo was taken a few kilometers from Conococha, at something like 4100masl. The snow usually start around 5000masl, so you can judge that the peaks here are definitely not easy one to conquer, and yet they are not the biggest one. The amazing part is that it is sort of a plateau (or we could call it a big mountain flat on top) with other mountains sitting on top it.

I’ll keep a great souvenir of the Cordillera Blanca (and Negra, on the other side of the road), even though we could not reach all the places we wanted to, since a better fitness level and some mountaineering skills are a requirement. Just the view by itself made it worth it. In about 100km from there, the lush green of the valley will become sand and dust, and the beautiful blue sky will become a grey fog.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Laguna 69: Soroche 1 – Greg 0 (Peru)

Hi !

El soroche (high altitude or mountain sickness) is something probably more of a legend for the Peruvians, but for a guy born and raised at 600masl (meter above sea level) and who has climbed the Vosges mountains (or hills would be more accurate) for the most part of his life, it will be a very bad experience. Fortunately, if I can say so, it wasn’t while doing the Everest that I had to face it.

We wanted to hike to Laguna 69, so following some recommendations, we decided to do it in two steps: day 1 we hike to Refugio Peru/Pisco, starting from 3900masl, then reaching 4700masl after some 5km, and day 2, we climb over a 5000masl pass to hike downhill to the laguna and then back to the trail head.

We did the climb to the Refugio in about 4h20 (accounting for more than 2h of breaks and catching my breath). When we passed the 4400masl, a strange feeling similar to light panic attacks and light fever starting to hit us. But it was easier to continue than going back, since there would be no car waiting for us and we could just freeze overnight. So we continued, and it was worst: the panic attack and fever feelings got worst, then came the headache and dizziness. We felt like shit !

The Refugio was however a pleasant surprise. First there’s the insane view, with the Pisco, the Huantoy and Huscaran peaks visible. operated by benevolences, with premium quality accommodation, I would say it wasn’t the worst place to rest and wait for the body to fight back the soroche. I would have hated to do that in a tent. We met there a few people, all having next to no issues with been that high. I won’t even talk about the Peruvian porters, who carried more than 50km and made the climb in less than two hours, no breaks unless they have to wait for their customers.

Anyway, it sort of killed the mood, and feeling that bad (and somewhat reminded of our lack of fitness), we decided not to attempt the Laguna 69 the next day, since passing a 5000masl pass was involved. We also decided to not do the Santa Cruz trek, as clearly we would not properly acclimate, since we are staying below 2500masl. This hike to the Refugio would probably have been a success if we would have slept a night at 3900masl, to acclimate properly.

So here it is, another failed attempt. I wouldn’t say it should mean no more high mountain, but doing better preparation definitively.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River (USA)

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Hi !

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River is, I must confess, quite the insane thing to witness. It doesn’t aim at competing against The Grand Canyon, but it certainly tale a story of cataclysm, massive erosion and other life threatening thing.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

The Yellowstone River (USA)

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Hi !

Yellowstone is the land of terrific volcanic activities, and then you can find the most peaceful river. Of course the events which led to such landscape where cataclysmic, but then it happen a bit more than half a million year ago.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Colors of Yellowstone (USA)

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Hi !

Yellowstone’s wonders are revealing to my eyes rich colours and beautiful landscape, which I’m not sure I’ve properly captured in this shot, but you get what you get.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Sunset on the Grand Teton (USA)

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Hi !

The night falls on the Grand Teton National Park, in such a dramatic way. My trip there is now finished, even though I only hiked 60km out of the many hundreds kilometres of trails available there.

I highly recommend to everybody to pay a visit, camp a couple of night, for it is really a neat place for wildlife, hiking and chilling.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned.

Road to the Grand Teton (USA)

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Hi !

Sometimes some great road leads to some great hikes, and with great hikes come great scenery !

Well I’m writing these lines having abused the local IPA a little bit too much… So I’m just gonna say I would love to knock one of these bastards out…

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

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