Torres del Paine (Chile)

Hi !

I knew Parque Nacional Torres del Paine would be one of the highlight of this journey in South America. Trekking the W circuit was incredible, but left me unsatisfied of not spending more time chilling in the wonder of nature. So I came back for another three days.

Instead of going through a lengthy description, I’ll leave you with the picture I took from various viewpoint (mirador) during this second trip to the park.

Torres del Paine from Villa Rio Serrano
Torres del Paine (from Villa Rio Serrano)
Torres del Paine from Mirador Rio Serrano
Torres del Paine (from Mirador Rio Serrano)
Paine Grande from Hotel Lago Grey
Paine Grande (from Hotel Lago Grey)
Torres del Paine from Rio Serrano
Torres del Paine (from Rio Serrano)
Los Cuenos
Los Cuernos
Los Cuernos from Mirador Cuernos
Los Cuernos (from Mirador Cuernos)
Torres_del_Paine_from_Mirador_Lago_Sarmiento.jpg
Torres del Paine (from Mirador Lago Sarmiento)

I only regret not seeing the other side of this mountain. I should eventually return in a few years to try the O circuit (plus a couple other trek and some kayaking). The good part is that been familiar with this park now, it should be rather easy to plan for it.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

The guanaco and the mountain (Chile)

Hi !

Peru, Argentina and Chile have blessed us an amazing and easy to spot wild life. It surely rarefied as we were going south in Patagonia and its desert landscape, but lately the guanaco became our buddy, appearing every now and then.

Here above is one in the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, on top of a hill, sort of keeping an eye on us. I could not resist framing it, with the mountain in the background. It is not a small animal, and yet in this landscape of huge rocks and wide empty spaces, he looks so tiny.

I shall mention that it is also rather tasty when stewed… or cured like the jamon serrano. You can’t say you like nature if you don’t get a taste of it 🙂

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Fuente Bulnes (Chile)

Hi !

The southernmost part of Patagonia, the Region de Magallanes, is to Chile what Ushuaia is to Argentina: the symbol of the struggle to survive in an hostile environment. I would however argue that the splendid views would make it one of the best place to die, if somebody is eating them.

The running joke lately has been to consider that there are two fashion season for winter jacket: winter and summer. If the occasional sunny day bring summer-ish temperatures, the grey days are cold as hell. An effect that wet air emphasizes even more. I managed to keep wearing shorts for a day, to get back to long pants.

But I should not feel bad, for the history of the first settlers in this region has been far more dramatic. Fuente Bulnes, a stronghold built to establish Chilean presence and gain control of the Magallanes Channel, is basically a reminder of the starvations of the first settlers, who had to move north to what is now Punta Arenas, after nearly all of them perished. Shipwrecks along the shore of the channel are more stories about more people perishing into icy cold waters, deeper than the two oceans nearby.

To a point that I start to look forward to move back up north to better climate, for someone has to be specially built to enjoy such a place all year round.

However the landscape and wild life (birds, whales, dolphins and guanacos) is amazing, something everyone should come see before it disappears.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Laguna Chaxa (Chile)

Hi !

Which picture, other than a peaceful lake and pink-ish flamingos, would be better suited to talk about a desert ?

The Desierto de Atacama (Atacama Desert) is the driest non-polar desert in the world, with some part having never received rain in recorded history. There are a few lakes, all overloaded with salt, coming from the higher plateaux when the snow melts and the water carries the salt down to the depression where the Salar de Atacama lies. Fortunately, the mild temperature (ranging for 0°C at night to 35°C during the day) makes it possible to enjoy this piece of desert.

Laguna Chaxa is the most popular of the lakes for those looking to observe some wild life, and appreciate the reflexion of the surrounding volcanoes.

Less postal card like, there was also a chance to spot the Andean Avocet, who likes the flamingo feeds on crustaceans, but don’t turn pink (so, less fashionable ?!).

Andean_Avocet_in_Laguna_Chaxa.jpg

Finaly, any sun-scorched place in the world wouldn’t be one without its resident lizard, who hunts the insects living on the surface of the salted water.

Lizard_in_Laguna_Chaxa.jpg

 

 

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Active volcano (Peru)

Hi !

Peru is one of this country that offers a huge variety of climate and landscape, from desert to tropical jungle, mountains and plateau higher that the highest peak in Europe. Driving (or been driven) in this environment is really an experience by itself, especially when you arrive at some 4900masl and see 8 volcanoes around you.

One of them was showing some activity, not really sure if this is just a production of steam, toxic gazes or the premises of a violent eruption. The story remains to be written on that.

Volcanoes and peaks all bear a huge importance for the Incas and pre-Incas, believing they were spirit protecting them. Yet most city stories usually are marked by the violence of the earthquakes and eruptions, which (if you have to look at the bright side) were reasons for them to improve their building technic and selection of location to establish new settlement.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

The flight of the condor (Peru)

Hi !

Certainly a cliché, but can you really visit Peru and miss the flight of the condor. I guess not. So I went on what I can tell you I hate the most: a guided tour to Canyon del Colca, with the expected stop at Cruz del Condor, a lookout located where the Canyon gets as deep as 3400m, a place where condors love to glide.

Sure we were several hundreds, all attempting to capture a photo of the magnificent bird, and I would like to think I wasn’t the worst. I could have done better if I would have drop a rotten body for them to eat and get close to me, but I was way to found of my traveling buddy to do that to her.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Mirador de los Andes (Peru)

Hi !

There are a few roads on earth that you’ll always hear people saying that you have to drive them (or been driven on them) once in your life: the West Coast Highway in New Zealand, the Great Ocean Road in Australia, … I would add the one between Arequipa and Chivay.

First, because how many times in your life will you drive over the Mont Blanc, which is what happens when you reach the Mirador de los Andes (4910masl). Second because you’ll pass next to vicuñas while enjoying beautiful volcanos, some probably active. The landscape is incredible, making it obvious that it is hostile to many form of life (trees and humans most definitively).

The above picture was shot at the Mirador de los Andes, aiming at the Cordillera Chilena. The air here is as pure as it gets. Roads seems to leads to the far away mountains, but will drop to the valley below at some 3600masl. The snow is usually appearing above 5000masl, if you want an idea of the size of these giant in front of us.

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !

Playful Emma

Hi !

Here’s my very loved niece, Emma, posing in her playful way in front of my dearly loved Fuji 56mm F/1.2 lens.

I think she knows exactly what she was doing, using the fourniture in the room, searching for the perfect light, instead of just smiling like any random kid would have done 🙂

Enjoy (or not) and stay tuned !